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Ice Axe Buying Guide

Ice Axe Buying Guide

Ice Axes Buying Large
See also topics
Crampons Buying Small


Ice axes or originally alpenstocks have been used since the mid nineteenth century. Mountaineers carry them as a basic safety tool. Originally used to cut steps in steeper slopes as well as a walking stick the advent of crampons means that their primary use is now for support and self-arrest.

Modern ice axes are split into two main categories; walking axes and climbing axes.

Safety Tests:
Ice axes are tested to different safety standards using the T (technical) and B (basic) testing controls for both the shaft and the pick (different test criteria). These T and B tests confirm to European CE standards for minimum strengths and allow the customer to be assured of similar levels of performance across different company's model ranges. In general a B rated axe is adequate for walking and a T rated axe is only needed to cope with the extra forces applied while ice or mixed climbing.

Walking Axes:
Walking axes generally will have an alpine style pick (see picture below) made from steel and a straight 50cm to 85cm steel or aluminium shaft

The pick is gently curved to give maximum stopping power when arresting a slip on snow. It is also designed to fit into the hand comfortably.

Walking axes will all have an adze designed for cutting steps, digging and clearing snow.

The shaft of a walking axe is straight or slightly curved to allow easy plunging in snow for building snow belays. The spike at the bottom of the shaft is to increase stability when the axe is used as a walking stick and to aid plunging for snow belays.

Walking axes will normally come with a very simple leash, this is to stop you dropping and losing the axe rather than to support your weight.

Walking axes come in different lengths to allow the user to have the most convenient size for their build. In general a walking axe should reach the top of your boot when held normally in you hand against your leg with a straight arm.
Grivel walking Axe
A modern walking or mountaineering axe.

Climbing Axes:
Most people will buy and carry climbing axes in pairs, to be used for upward progression on ice or rock as an extension of your arms, with fingers that do not tire and unhook.

Climbing axes have dropped or "banana" style picks, which give better penetration and holding power in ice and more secure hooking on rock. The picks have more aggressive teeth than on a walking axes alpine pick which again improve the placement security while climbing.

Climbing axes normally have a 50cm long shaft. This length is thought to give the best compromise between security on steep snow, holding power as a snow anchor and precision when swung above ones head while climbing. The shaft will normally be curved, this is partly to prevent your knuckles bashing into the ice with each placement and partly to allow hooking over features of the rock or ice.

The leash on a climbing axe will normally be more padded and supportive than on a walking axe. This allows the climber to rest some of their weight in the leashes while climbing.

Some climbing axes have a horn, pommel, trigger or other type of hand support incorporated in the handle. These features allow the climber to hold the axes more comfortably and less strenuously.
DMM Tech Axe
A technical climbing axe.
 
Summary:
If you intend to go out into the mountains in winter conditions it's a good idea to take an ice axe. For general walking, glacier travel and winter climbing up to about Scottish grade three a walking axe should be sufficient, any more than that and you probably want a pair of technical climbing axes.